The Art of Tramezzini in Venice

In the labyrinthine alleys and sun-dappled squares of Venice, where the past and present dance together in an eternal embrace, there exists a culinary tradition as integral to the city's soul as its winding canals and storied bridges. This tradition is none other than the art of tramezzini, a testament to Venice's rich cultural tapestry and its unwavering devotion to the simple pleasures of life.

Tramezzini, the quintessential Venetian sandwiches, are more than just food; they are a narrative of Venice itself, told through layers of soft, crustless bread and an imaginative array of fillings. Originating in the early 20th century as Italy's answer to the English tea sandwich, tramezzini have evolved into a beloved staple, mirroring the city’s knack for blending the traditional with the innovative.

Each tramezzino tells a story, a slice of life in Venice, where the hustle of daily commerce mingles with the leisurely pace of café culture. These sandwiches are a fixture in the city's bars and cafés, known locally as bacari, where they are enjoyed at all hours by tourists and Venetians alike. The fillings range from the classic—tuna, olive, and mayonnaise—to the adventurous, showcasing local ingredients and the creativity of Venetian cooks. It is in these fillings that the true essence of Venice is discovered, a palette of flavors as diverse and vibrant as the city itself.

But to truly understand the significance of tramezzini, one must delve into the spaces they occupy. These are not merely eateries but social hubs, where conversations flow as freely as the wine, and the lines between stranger and friend blur with every shared bite. Here, in the shadow of ancient architecture and the gleam of the Adriatic, the tramezzino transcends its humble origins, becoming a symbol of Venetian conviviality and the joy of shared experiences.

This blog post is an ode to Venice's tramezzini, a journey through the places that craft them with love and the stories that they tell. It is a celebration of culinary simplicity and complexity, an invitation to explore Venice one bite at a time. As we uncover the best spots for tramezzini in the city, we pay homage to a tradition that continues to captivate the hearts and palates of all who wander through Venice's enchanting streets.

Welcome to the tale of Venice, told through the art of tramezzini. Let us embark on this flavorful voyage together, discovering the soul of the city one sandwich at a time.

Bar Alla Toletta: Located in Dorsoduro, this bar is known for its wide variety of tramezzini, offering both classic and inventive fillings. It's a favorite among students and locals alike, praised for its generous portions and quality.

Al Canton: Also situated in Dorsoduro, this spot is celebrated for its cozy atmosphere and delicious tramezzini. With another location mentioned on your list, it's clear they've made a significant mark on Venice's tramezzini scene.

Birreria Forst: Found in Calle delle Rasse, this place is not only a great spot for a beer but also offers a selection of satisfying tramezzini, perfect for a quick snack while exploring the city.

Al vecio Penasa: Another gem in Calle delle Rasse, this establishment serves up tramezzini known for their fresh ingredients and traditional flavors, making it a hit with those seeking an authentic Venetian taste.

Bar Rialto (da Lollo): Located in San Polo, this bar offers a strategic spot near the Rialto market to enjoy some of the city’s most praised tramezzini, combining convenience with culinary delight.

Ai Nomboli: Nestled in Calle dei Nomboli in San Polo, Ai Nomboli is famed for its friendly atmosphere and a selection of tramezzini that are both hearty and flavorful, attracting a loyal local following.

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A Journey Through Venice's Hidden Gems....The Boutique Hotels

Venice, a city woven from the threads of history, art, and the timeless dance of its canals, holds secrets waiting to be uncovered by the discerning traveler. Beyond the grandeur of its palazzos and the serenity of its waterways lies a world of intimate experiences and hidden treasures. Among these are boutique hotels, each a universe unto itself, offering more than just a place to stay; they are gateways to the soul of Venice.

In this exploration, we delve into the heart of Venetian hospitality, discovering places where every corner tells a story, and every room is a canvas of creativity and history. From the lush, hidden gardens of Hotel Flora, the eclectic charm of Novecento Boutique Hotel, and the historical elegance of Hotel al Ponte Mocenigo, we embark on a journey that transcends the usual tourist paths. Alongside these, we uncover three additional gems, each selected for their unique narrative and contribution to the rich tapestry of Venetian life.

This blog post is not just a guide but an invitation to experience Venice through the lens of its most charming boutique hotels. It is a journey designed for those who seek to immerse themselves in the city's authentic spirit, away from the crowded tourist spots, into the warm embrace of its hidden corners. As we navigate through these enchanting havens, we'll uncover the stories they hold, the artistry they exhibit, and the unparalleled hospitality they offer.

Join me, Marco Secchi, as we step through the doors of Venice's most captivating boutique hotels, each stop a chapter in our journey, each hotel a home away from home. Through the eyes of a photographer and storyteller, we'll discover the soul of Venice, one boutique hotel at a time.

Hotel Flora

Nestled in the heart of Venice, just a stone's throw from the majestic Piazza San Marco, Hotel Flora offers a serene escape within its 17th-century walls. This family-run gem boasts a lush, secret garden where guests can enjoy their breakfast or a moment of tranquility away from the bustling Venetian streets. Each of the 40 rooms is uniquely decorated, blending traditional Venetian elegance with modern comforts. The attention to detail and the warm hospitality of the staff make Hotel Flora a perfect haven for those looking to immerse themselves in the authentic spirit of Venice. With Novecento it is my favourite!

Novecento Boutique Hotel

Novecento Boutique Hotel is an intimate, eclectic haven inspired by Mediterranean and Oriental cultures, located just off the grandeur of Campo Santo Stefano. With just nine rooms, this hotel offers a personalized experience that feels both cozy and cosmopolitan. The interior decor is a curated collection of art and artifacts that the owners have lovingly gathered from their travels, creating a unique aesthetic that is both worldly and homely. The Novecento is ideal for travelers seeking a boutique experience that tells a story, making each stay memorable and visually inspiring.

Hotel al Ponte Mocenigo

Situated in the historic Santa Croce district, Hotel al Ponte Mocenigo is set in two beautifully restored 15th-century buildings, accessible via its own private bridge. This hotel exudes old-world charm, with its rooms adorned in traditional Venetian style, featuring sumptuous fabrics, Murano glass chandeliers, and marble bathrooms. Despite its grandeur, the atmosphere is welcoming and intimate, thanks to the personalized service provided by its hosts. It's a perfect spot for those who appreciate history and elegance, offering countless opportunities for stunning photography.

Ca' Maria Adele

Ca' Maria Adele takes luxury and personalization to the next level, situated in the arts-rich Dorsoduro district. This boutique hotel is renowned for its thematic rooms, such as the opulent Doge’s Room or the exotic African Room, each crafted with an eye for detail and a flair for the dramatic. The hotel's ambiance combines Venetian tradition with a touch of modern luxury, making it an exquisite backdrop for both relaxation and photography. Its location offers a peaceful retreat with easy access to Venice’s famed galleries and museums, appealing to art enthusiasts and luxury seekers alike.

Oltre il Giardino

Oltre il Giardino offers a unique experience as a tranquil oasis in the midst of Venice’s historic landscape. Once the home of Alma Mahler, this boutique hotel is now a sanctuary surrounded by lush gardens, offering a rare blend of privacy, elegance, and natural beauty. The rooms are elegantly furnished, combining classic Venetian touches with all the comforts of a modern luxury retreat. Oltre il Giardino is perfect for those seeking a peaceful haven from which to explore the city, offering serene garden views and a taste of Venetian life away from the tourist trail.

Charming House DD724

The Charming House DD724 stands out for its commitment to contemporary design within the historical context of Venice. A stone's throw from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, this boutique hotel is a haven for modern art and architecture lovers. The rooms and communal spaces feature minimalist design, complementing striking contemporary art pieces. This hotel offers a comfortable stay and stimulates the senses and inspires creativity, making it an ideal choice for those who appreciate modern aesthetics in the heart of a historic city.

Exploring Venice, One Sip at a Time: The Ultimate Coffee Lover’s Guide

Venice isn't just a feast for the eyes; it's a paradise for coffee lovers too. Amidst its storied canals and timeless architecture, the city boasts an array of cafes that offer much more than just a caffeine fix. They are gateways to experiencing the Venetian way of life. Today, we're thrilled to guide you through six of the most captivating coffee spots in Venice, including the newly added Bonifacio and Chiusso, as well as the beloved Florian and Torrefazione Cannaregio, and a couple of our new suggestions.

Caffè Florian: Steeped in History

Caffè Florian, standing proudly in Piazza San Marco since 1720, is not just the oldest café in Venice but an institution that has witnessed history unfold. Florian's opulent interiors and art-laden walls offer a backdrop like no other, where sipping on a meticulously brewed coffee feels like a journey back in time. Here, the past is palpable, and the coffee is as rich as the café's history.

P.za San Marco, 57, 30124 Venezia VE

Torrefazione Cannaregio: A Modern Roastery with Old-World Charm

Torrefazione Cannaregio, a favorite among locals, is a testament to Venice's deep-rooted coffee culture. This bustling roastery is known for its selection of beans from around the world and the artful way they are roasted on-site. The aroma of fresh coffee beckons from afar, promising a flavorful experience. It's a must-visit for those who appreciate the craft behind a perfect cup of coffee.

Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2804, 30121 Venezia VE

Bonifacio: Where Tradition Meets Modernity

Bonifacio offers a serene escape in a quieter part of Venice, blending traditional Venetian charm with contemporary elegance. Famous for its expertly brewed coffee and homemade pastries, Bonifacio is a testament to the timeless appeal of Italian café culture, serving as a bridge between the past and present over a cup of coffee. It is my favourite please, and you can find me here nearly every day!

C. degli Albanesi, 4217, 30122 Venezia VE

Chiusso: Venice's Cozy Corner

Tucked away from the well-trodden tourist paths, Chiusso is a small but mighty café known for its bold coffee and inviting atmosphere. It’s a place where every cup is crafted with passion, offering a cozy nook for those seeking a quiet moment in the bustling city. Chiusso embodies the warm, community-focused spirit of Venice.

Salizzada dei Greci, 3306, 30122 Venezia VE

Rosa Salva: A Culinary Icon

Rosa Salva is one of Venice's oldest pasticcerie and a hidden gem for coffee enthusiasts. Known for its exquisite pastries and elegant ambiance, it offers a delightful coffee experience. Whether you're starting your day with a morning espresso or taking a mid-afternoon break, Rosa Salva's blend of culinary excellence and coffee mastery is unmatched.

Campo S. Salvador, 4805, 30124 Venezia VE

Al Profeta: A Secret Garden Café

Nestled in a charming courtyard, Al Profeta is Venice’s best-kept secret. This café boasts a picturesque garden setting where you can enjoy your coffee surrounded by greenery, offering a tranquil retreat from the city's buzz. Known for its friendly service and excellent coffee, Al Profeta is a haven for those seeking peace and a perfect espresso.

C. Lunga S. Barnaba, 2671, 30123 Venezia VE

Wrapping Up

Venice is a city of endless discovery, and its coffee culture is a rich part of its tapestry. Each of these cafes offers something unique, whether it's a journey through history, a lesson in coffee roasting, or a quiet moment in a secret garden. Let these coffee spots guide your exploration as you wander through Venice, one sip at a time. They're not just stops on a map; they're experiences embodying this magnificent city's spirit.

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Discovering the Nolinski Venice: A Haven of Elegance and Serenity

In the heart of Venice, a city that floats on the dreams of artists and poets, lies a sanctuary of luxury and tranquility - the Nolinski Venice. This hotel, more than just a place to stay, offers an immersive experience into the refined elegance that defines Venice itself.

From the moment you step through its doors, the Nolinski Venice whispers tales of sophistication and comfort. The interior, a harmonious blend of Venetian tradition and contemporary design, speaks to the soul, offering a warm welcome to weary travellers seeking respite and enchantment.

Accommodations Fit for Royalty

Each room and suite at the Nolinski is a testament to craftsmanship and artistry, adorned with bespoke furniture and lush fabrics that echo the city's rich heritage. Windows open to breathtaking views of Venice’s iconic canals and skyline, promising a serene start and end to every day.

Culinary Delights to Savor

The hotel's dining experience is nothing short of spectacular, with a menu that celebrates the bounty of the Veneto region. Fresh, locally sourced ingredients are transformed into exquisite dishes that tantalize the palate, served in settings that range from elegantly casual to opulently grand.

An Oasis of Wellness

The Nolinski Venice also houses a world-class spa, an oasis where time stands still. Here, guests can indulge in treatments that blend ancient techniques with modern wellness concepts, ensuring a rejuvenating escape from the hustle and bustle of the outside world.

Exclusive Experiences

Beyond its walls, the Nolinski offers unique experiences designed to immerse guests in the art, culture, and beauty of Venice. From private gondola tours under the moonlight to exclusive access to art collections and historic sites, the hotel ensures every stay is unforgettable.

A Homage to Venice’s Timeless Beauty

Staying at the Nolinski Venice is more than just a visit; it's an homage to the city's timeless beauty and a journey into the heart of Venetian luxury. It stands as a beacon for those who seek the extraordinary, a place where every detail tells a story of elegance, passion, and the enduring charm of Venice.

Poolside Ambiance

Perched on the hotel's uppermost level, a breathtaking vista unfolds—a mosaic of terracotta roofs sprawling beneath the sky. Here, an opulent indoor pool inspired by Roman baths glistens with a touch of Byzantine elegance through its shimmering gold mosaic tiles. But the splendour doesn't end with the pool's luxurious design; panoramic views offer a visual feast of Venice's iconic landmarks, including the towering Campanile, the majestic Doge’s Palace, and the domes of St Mark’s Basilica, each contributing to the poolside's allure.

Spa Retreat

Immerse yourself in a world of tranquillity and refined beauty reminiscent of Giovanni Bellini's serene portraits at the hotel's exclusive spa. Indulge in treatments enriched with the luxury of Swiss La Colline skincare within the privacy of a spacious therapy suite designed for individuals or couples. Nestled behind the discreet elegance of the Library Bar, this sanctuary under a star-painted ceiling draws inspiration from the grandeur of Ottoman design. While making a wish under this starlit dome may seem tempting, one might argue that being enveloped in Venice's lap of luxury is a dream already realized.

From Marco Polo Airport to the Heart of Venice: Your Comprehensive Guide to Smooth Transfers

Venice, with its enchanting canals, historic architecture, and timeless charm, remains a top destination on every traveler's bucket list. The journey into this floating city begins at Marco Polo Airport, the main international gateway for visitors around the world. Navigating from the airport to the heart of Venice can be part of the adventure, offering various modes of transport each with its own unique flavor. This guide will explore all the possibilities to help you make the best choice for your trip to Central Venice.

Overview of Transportation Options

Upon landing, you'll find several ways to reach Central Venice: water taxis, Vaporetto (water bus), bus services, and private car transfers. Each option offers a different experience, from gliding across the lagoon in a water taxi to the practicality of a bus ride. Let's dive into the details of each mode of transport.

Water Taxi

A water taxi provides the most scenic and direct route to Central Venice. These sleek, wooden boats offer a private and comfortable journey, allowing you to admire Venice's beauty from the water. Expect the cost to be higher than other options, with prices depending on your destination within Venice and the number of passengers. A ride from Marco Polo Airport to a central location can take about 20-30 minutes. It's advisable to book in advance, especially during peak tourist seasons. Upon arrival, follow signs to the water taxi docks, located a short walk from the terminal.

Vaporetto (Water Bus)

The Vaporetto, Venice's public water bus service, is a cost-effective and authentic way to reach the city. The Alilaguna lines directly connect the airport with various stops in Venice, including the popular San Marco and Rialto areas. Tickets can be purchased at the airport or online, with a journey time of approximately 60-75 minutes depending on your stop. This option not only offers a glimpse into the daily life of Venetians but also provides a scenic route into the city.

Bus Services to Venice

For those looking for a more straightforward land route, the ACTV city buses and ATVO express coaches offer reliable services from Marco Polo Airport to Piazzale Roma, the closest point to Central Venice accessible by vehicle. The journey takes about 20 minutes, making it the fastest land option. Tickets are available at the airport, and buses depart frequently throughout the day. Piazzale Roma is well-connected to other parts of Venice via Vaporetto, making it a convenient entry point to the city.

Private Car Service

For the ultimate convenience and comfort, consider booking a private car service. This option is perfect for travelers with heavy luggage or those preferring a door-to-door service. Prices vary based on the service provider and the specific needs of your party. Advanced booking is recommended to ensure availability. While cars can only take you as far as Piazzale Roma, some services offer combined car and water taxi packages for a seamless transfer to your final destination in Venice.

Conclusion

Whether you choose the romance of a water taxi, the authenticity of the Vaporetto, the efficiency of a bus, or the luxury of a private car service, each option offers a unique way to start your Venetian adventure. Consider your budget, group size, and the experience you wish to have when selecting your mode of transport from Marco Polo Airport to Central Venice.

Additional Tips

• Check the latest transport schedules and prices as they can vary seasonally.

• Consider purchasing a Venice Card for discounts on public transportation if you plan to use the Vaporetto frequently.

• For those arriving late at night or with early morning departures, staying near Piazzale Roma or the Santa Lucia train station can offer convenient access to airport transport.

Embark on your journey to Venice with confidence, knowing the best routes from Marco Polo Airport to the heart of this magical city. Welcome to Venice, where every arrival is the beginning of an unforgettable story.

Check my Rexby Guide The Venice I See

A Guide to Venice: the Best Neighborhoods

Venice, a city woven with canals and steeped in history, offers an array of mesmerizing neighbourhoods for travellers seeking an authentic experience. While the allure of San Marco and Rialto is undeniable, their bustling crowds can sometimes overshadow this city's serene beauty. Here, we explore the enchanting areas of Venice that promise a more intimate encounter with La Serenissima.

1. Cannaregio: A Blend of Serenity and Accessibility

Just a stone's throw from the Santa Lucia train station, Cannaregio is a traveller’s dream for its convenience and tranquillity. This district, a tapestry of narrow alleys and serene canals, offers a glimpse into the everyday life of Venetians. The Jewish Ghetto, nestled in Cannaregio, is historically significant and brims with cosy trattorias and artisan shops. Stay here for easy access to the train station and a peaceful retreat after a day of exploration.

2. Dorsoduro: The Artistic Heartbeat

Dorsoduro, known for its vibrant art scene, is an ideal choice for those enchanted by creativity and culture. Home to the renowned Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Accademia Gallery, this area is a haven for art lovers. The lively Campo Santa Margherita, dotted with cafes and bars, provides a youthful vibe. Choose Dorsoduro for a stay enriched with art, splendid views of the Grand Canal, and a lively yet relaxed nightlife.

3. Castello: A Slice of Authentic Venice

For a deep dive into Venetian life, Castello is your go-to. This sprawling neighborhood, stretching from the edge of San Marco to the verdant gardens of Biennale, is a mosaic of local life, historic sites, and charming cafes. Experience the authentic Venice, away from the tourist trail, and enjoy leisurely walks along the picturesque Riva degli Schiavoni.

4. Santa Croce: Convenience and Character

Santa Croce, often overlooked by tourists, offers a unique blend of convenience and Venetian charm. Easily accessible from Piazzale Roma and the train station, this area is ideal for those with heavy luggage or limited time. Despite its central location, Santa Croce maintains a laid-back atmosphere filled with hidden gems and local eateries.

5. Giudecca: An Island Retreat

For a serene escape, consider staying in Giudecca. This island, just a short vaporetto ride from the main city, is a peaceful sanctuary with spectacular views of Venice. Giudecca is known for its artistic workshops and less crowded walkways and is perfect for those seeking tranquillity and inspiration.

6. San Polo: A Culinary Delight in the Heart of Venice

Nestled in the heart of Venice, San Polo is a delightful district for those who appreciate the culinary arts and vibrant market life. This area, one of the city's oldest parts, is home to the famous Rialto Market, where locals and chefs gather for the freshest seafood and produce. The narrow streets of San Polo are lined with an array of eateries, from traditional Venetian bacari (wine bars) to gourmet restaurants, making it a paradise for food enthusiasts. Despite its proximity to the more crowded tourist spots, San Polo retains a sense of intimacy and charm, offering a perfect blend of culinary exploration and Venetian authenticity. Stay in San Polo for an immersive gastronomic experience and easy access to Venice’s iconic sights.In Conclusion

Venice, a city of unparalleled beauty and history, offers diverse neighbourhoods, each with its unique charm. Whether you seek the artistic pulse of Dorsoduro, the tranquillity of Giudecca, or the convenient accessibility of Cannaregio, Venice has a corner that will speak to your heart. Remember, the beauty of Venice lies not just in its famous landmarks but in the hidden alleys, the local cafes, and the daily life of its residents. Happy exploring!

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There's a whole other side of Venice waiting beyond the screen — and I'd love to show it to you. My private walks and tours are built for curious souls with or without a camera. Have a look here.

Discovering Venice's Most Romantic Restaurants: A Visual Feast

Venice, a city synonymous with romance, offers many dining experiences that are as visually captivating as gastronomically satisfying. As a photographer who appreciates the interplay of light, shadow, and colour, I've discovered several restaurants where the ambience and culinary delights create the perfect setting for a romantic evening.

Here are my top picks:

1. Osteria Boccadoro

Nestled away from the bustling tourist paths, Osteria Boccadoro is a hidden gem. Its intimate setting, warm lighting, and elegant decor set the mood for a romantic evening. Fresh from the sea and the lagoon, the seafood here is a must-try, perfectly complemented by a selection of fine wines. The soft lighting and the classic Venetian atmosphere make it an ideal spot for photography enthusiasts to capture the essence of Venice.

2. Ristorante Riviera

Situated on the Zattere promenade, Ristorante Riviera offers a stunning view of the Giudecca Canal. The outdoor seating during sunset provides a breathtaking backdrop for a romantic dinner. The cuisine, a blend of traditional and contemporary flavours, is as spectacular as the view. Capture the golden hour with your camera while enjoying their exquisite seafood dishes.

3. Terrazza Danieli

Terrazza Danieli is the place to be for an unparalleled view of the Venetian skyline. Located atop the Hotel Danieli, this restaurant offers a panoramic view of Venice, including the Doge's Palace and the Grand Canal. The luxurious ambience, combined with their gourmet menu, makes it a top choice for a memorable evening. The setting sun casts a magical light over the city, a photographer's dream.

4. Al Covo

Al Covo, a cosy and welcoming restaurant, is known for its commitment to high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. The intimate ambience, with candlelit tables and soft music, is ideal for a quiet romantic dinner. The traditional Venetian cuisine, especially their signature seafood dishes, is a delight. The rustic charm of Al Covo offers numerous opportunities for capturing the authentic Venetian spirit in your photographs.

5. Antiche Carampane

Away from the main tourist routes, Antiche Carampane offers an authentic Venetian dining experience. This family-run trattoria is known for its traditional recipes and intimate atmosphere. The interior, adorned with vintage photographs and classic Venetian decor, exudes romance. Their seafood pasta is a highlight, and the ambience is just right for a romantic, understated evening.

In Venice, every corner, every canal, and every cobblestone street tells a story. These restaurants offer a feast not only for the palate but also for the eyes. They are places where the romance of Venice is not just seen but felt, making them perfect for a special evening with your significant other. As a photographer, I find these settings not just culinary delights but also a source of artistic inspiration.

Closing Note

I hope this guide helps you find the perfect spot for a romantic evening in Venice. If you would like to post your favourite place, do so in the comments. You will help me and future readers. Remember, the city's charm lies not just in its famous landmarks but also in the hidden gems that offer a more intimate experience of La Serenissima. Buon appetito and happy photographing!

How does Venice work?

Understanding the Architectural Marvel that is Venice: A Must-Know for Every Aspiring Photographer

Venice is not just another picturesque destination; it's a feat of human engineering, a city built on water. Every photographer, whether a novice or a professional, stands to gain from understanding this marvel. This knowledge can enhance your photography skills, offering you unique perspectives that go beyond capturing gondolas and sunsets.

Watch the video below to get a comprehensive understanding of how Venice is built and how it works.

Why Venice is an Architectural Marvel

1. Built on Stilts: The most striking feature of Venice is that it's built on wooden stilts driven deep into the marshy ground. These stilts support the buildings you see, making for intriguing angles and reflections for photography.

2. Canal System: The Grand Canal snakes its way through the city, functioning as a waterway highway. Understanding its layout can help you anticipate crowd movements and take photos that capture the city's dynamism.

3. Tidal Movements: Venice experiences regular tidal shifts. Knowledge of the tides can help you capture the city in contrasting states—sunkissed piazzas or moody flooded streets.

How This Knowledge Can Elevate Your Photography

1. Timed Shots: Knowing when the canals are most likely to be still or bustling can help you time your shots for that perfect mirror reflection or dynamic water ripples.

2. Unique Angles: The construction of Venice offers numerous unique vantage points, especially from its numerous bridges and narrow alleys.

3. Storytelling: Understanding Venice's construction can add layers to your compositions, transforming them from mere snapshots to compelling visual stories.

Upcoming Workshops and Masterclasses

If you're inspired to capture the beauty and complexity of Venice, you'll be interested in our upcoming workshops and masterclasses. Conducted in the heart of Venice, these sessions provide hands-on experience, teaching you to take stunning photos and understand the story behind each frame.

• Photography Masterclass in Venice: A 2 or 3-day intensive course that includes a deep dive into architectural photography.

• Weekend Workshop in Venice: Perfect for those who are short on time but high on enthusiasm.

Conclusion

Understanding Venice is more than knowing where to find the best gelato (although that's important, too!). It’s about grasping the essence of a city that's both an engineering marvel and a living, breathing work of art. With this understanding, you can transform your photography into a medium that doesn't just capture a scene but tells the enduring story of La Serenissima.

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The Top Luxury Hotels in Venice: A Connoisseur's Guide

Venice, a city of unparalleled romance and beauty, offers an array of accommodations to make your stay unforgettable.

As someone who has had the privilege of capturing the essence of Venice through a camera lens, I know how integral a hotel experience can be in shaping your overall impression of a place. From historical palazzos to modern retreats, Venice has a luxury hotel for every taste. Here, I present an updated list of my favourite top luxury hotels in Venice for the discerning traveller.

Aman Venice

Nestled in a 16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, Aman Venice is the epitome of luxury. It's not just a hotel; it's a living, breathing work of art. From sumptuous interiors to exceptional service, this hotel promises an unforgettable stay.

Belmond Hotel Cipriani

Belmond Hotel Cipriani provides a sanctuary of exclusivity and elegance only reachable by private boat. This hotel hosts one of Venice's largest swimming pools and offers unmatched views of the Venetian Lagoon and Doge's Palace.

The Gritti Palace

This former 16th-century noble house turned luxury hotel offers a unique blend of historical grandeur and contemporary amenities. With an exclusive Acqua di Parma spa and an on-site cooking school, The Gritti Palace is much more than just a hotel—it’s a unique Venetian experience.

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Situated on its own island in the Venetian Lagoon, San Clemente Palace Kempinski provides an escape from the city's bustling tourist hubs. This 190-room luxury hotel boasts meticulously landscaped gardens, three bars, and three restaurants, offering an all-encompassing luxury experience.

Baglioni Hotel Luna

The Baglioni Hotel Luna offers an intimate and romantic setting only steps from Piazza San Marco. This hotel provides a classical Venetian experience, from its Murano glass chandeliers to its splendidly ornate rooms. A private dock allows for convenient travel to and from the hotel, adding to its exclusive charm.

Conclusion

Venice has always been more than a destination; it's an experience, an eternal moment captured in time. These luxury hotels serve as the perfect backdrop to a city renowned for its art, culture, and its unique layout of canals and narrow streets. They offer not merely a place to sleep, but an immersive experience that captures the very essence of Venetian opulence.

From sipping Bellinis on a private terrace overlooking the Grand Canal to treating yourself to a spa day after an inspiring photography session, these hotels ensure a stay as memorable as Venice.

So, whether you're here to capture the perfect shot or to indulge in Venetian luxury, make your reservations now. Your dream Venetian getaway awaits you.

"Enjoyed this post?"
There's a whole other side of Venice waiting beyond the screen — and I'd love to show it to you. My private walks and tours are built for curious souls with or without a camera. Have a look here.

How to Find an Address in Venice

Italy's Venice is a city with many sights to see, but finding these sights can be difficult if you're not familiar with the town's address system. The city was built to make sense to those using the canals, not those on foot. You're bound to get lost at least once as you wander the streets searching for hidden gems of the city.

A map may tell you the name of alleys and squares, but a typical Venetian address is simply: San Marco 1323. Venice is split into districts called sestieri, and each building in a sestiere is numbered in one long consecutive sequence. Venice's random and informal street names are not officially part of an address, although many businesses will helpfully provide one. To pin-point a location therefore, you don't just need the brief official address, you also need a street/square name and also some helpful geographical pointer, e.g. a nearby church.

Even street names are far from straightforward. Most have evolved to describe an established location and mean descriptive things like 'Alley of the carpenters' or 'Courtyard with a well'. Consequently there are often several places with the same or similar names. If you are locating a street, you will require the name of the sestiere as well (what's more, sometimes there is more than one place with the same name in one sestiere). And even armed with official address, and street name, your task still isn't simple.

The next confusion is that sometimes one place may have more than one name. Even one name may have different versions - many streets in Venice are known both by their dialect name and by the Italianised version. Either of these may appear on maps. This is why you'll see many variations of placenames such as Fondamenta Nove (even throughout this website).

Streetsigns are not always easy to spot in narrow lanes. They may offer one or more variations on the name (o means 'or'), and they are often joined on the walls by signs identifying the parish (parocchia) and any adjacent canal (rio) or bridge (ponte).

If you're spending a long time in Venice or are just very interested in the city's structure, there is a good book called Calli, Campielli e Canali which provides extremely large scale street plans, along with property numbers. It covers Venice and the lagoon islands, and enables you to locate any address in the city, as well as providing some background information in Italian and English on landmarks and principal buildings. You can buy it in most bookshops in Venice. Sadly, it's rather too bulky to carry around as you explore.

What the names mean

Here are some of the most common titles for places in Venice: Calle - a lane or alley Campo - public open space (irregularly-shaped and less formal than a 'piazza'). Campo means field, and once these were rough-surfaced in earth or grass, and used for burials. They are still the hubs of their neighbourhoods. Campiello - a small square or courtyard. Corte - courtyard. Fondamenta - canalside walkway. Piazza - public square. There is only one in Venice, Piazza San Marco. Ponte - bridge. Piscina - filled-in pool of water. Ruga - significant lane, generally one which used to contain shops. Ramo - branch off a more important thoroughfare, whose name it takes. Rio - canal. Rio terrà or terà - filled-in canal, now a street. Salizzada - name given to the earliest streets to be paved. Sottoportego - covered passage under a building, often leading only to water.

Navigating Venice - theories, routes and landmarks

You can spend many idle moments in Venice evolving navigational theories. Landmarks are all-important, both major ones and private reminders. Routes between significant points are learned this way: e.g. ' left by the greengrocers, straight over the square with a tree in it, down the lane between the red house and the yellow house, left past the Renaissance doorway'. Even if you're the sort of person who has an excellent sense of direction, you'll still find that concentrating on a chain of landmarks is more effective in Venice than working from a mental map. If you're arriving for the first time and finding your hotel, make sure they give you simple, descriptive directions. Once you've found your base, memorise the route to the nearest major landmark or street (one that's marked on your map) - then you'll be able to find your way back. While route-finding and consulting maps, do bear in mind the Venetian rules of conduct; walk on the right and don't block streets.

There are certain through-routes in Venice - chains of lanes linking places together. At busy times of the day you'll see locals filing along these tortuous routes, striding down seeming dead-end alleys and darting around sharp corners. After a while you learn those of use to you, and create your own mental database of Venetian routes.

The only destinations signposted at all consistently are St. Mark's (San Marco), the Rialto, the railway station (Ferrovia) and the bus terminus (Piazzale Roma). Even these painted signs do sometimes falter, but generally they are reliable and can help you to head in the right direction. The ones to San Marco are the most suspect, as some signposted lanes can take you a long way round (something to do with shopkeepers wanting passing trade, perhaps?).

My Favorite Maps are here

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A Taste of the City: Exploring Venice’s Must-Try Restaurants

Venice is a city renowned for its stunning architecture, rich history, and vibrant culture. But perhaps one of the city's most beloved features is its incredible food scene. From fresh seafood to traditional Venetian dishes, there's no shortage of delicious cuisine to be found in Venice. In this post, we'll be sharing some of the best restaurants in Venice, including popular favorites and hidden gems. Whether you're a seafood lover or looking for vegetarian-friendly options, there's something for everyone on this list. So, let's dive in and explore the culinary delights of Venice!

Al Giardinetto da Severino: This charming restaurant is situated in the heart of Venice and offers an extensive menu of delicious seafood dishes. The atmosphere is cozy and intimate, with a lovely outdoor garden for al fresco dining. The restaurant is known for its fresh ingredients and traditional Venetian cuisine.

Antiche Carampane: This is a must-visit restaurant for seafood lovers. The menu is focused on fresh seafood caught locally and prepared in the traditional Venetian style. The warm, welcoming atmosphere, attentive service, and a lovely canal-side setting.

Osteria da Fiore: This Michelin-starred restaurant is known for its exceptional food and elegant ambience. The menu features a creative take on traditional Venetian cuisine, focusing on fresh seafood and locally sourced ingredients. The wine list is also impressive, with an extensive selection of Italian and international wines.

Trattoria da Romano: This restaurant is situated on the island of Burano, just a short boat ride from Venice. It's worth the trip for the picturesque setting alone, but the food is equally impressive. The menu features classic Venetian dishes, including seafood risotto and grilled squid, prepared with fresh, local ingredients.\

Ristorante Da Ivo: This restaurant is located in the charming neighbourhood of San Marco and offers a cosy, intimate atmosphere. The menu features traditional Venetian cuisine with an emphasis on seafood dishes. The wine list is also excellent, with a selection of Italian and international wines.

Osteria Bancogiro: This restaurant is located on the Grand Canal and offers stunning views of the water. The menu features a mix of traditional Venetian dishes and modern Italian cuisine, focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients. The wine list is also impressive, with a selection of Italian and international wines.

Trattoria alla Madonna: This cosy, family-run restaurant has been a favourite among locals and tourists for years. The menu features classic Venetian dishes, such as risotto and seafood pasta, as well as a variety of meat dishes. The restaurant also has an extensive wine list, focusing on Italian wines.

Anice Stellato: This charming restaurant is located in the Cannaregio neighbourhood and is known for its creative take on Venetian cuisine. The menu features a variety of seafood dishes, as well as vegetarian and meat options. The warm and welcoming atmosphere, with a cozy dining room and a lovely outdoor terrace.

Osteria La Zucca: This vegetarian-friendly restaurant is located in the Santa Croce neighbourhood and offers a refreshing break from the seafood-heavy menus of many Venetian restaurants. The menu features a variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes and a selection of seafood and meat options. The atmosphere is cosy and inviting, with rustic decor and friendly service.

Alle Testiere: This small, intimate restaurant in the Castello neighbourhood is known for its exceptional seafood dishes. The menu changes daily, depending on what's fresh and in season, but it always features a variety of creative and delicious seafood dishes. The atmosphere is cosy and romantic, with just a few tables and attentive service.

Venice is a city with many exceptional restaurants, and Al Giardinetto da Severino is one of the best. I hope this list also helps you discover other hidden gems in the city!

The Scoop on Venice's Finest Gelato: Top 5 Must-Try Ice Cream Spots

The Scoop on Venice's Finest Gelato: Top 5 Must-Try Ice Cream Spots

Venice, Italy, known for its winding canals, historic architecture, and delicious Italian cuisine, is also home to some of the best gelato in the world. I've often enjoyed tasting my way through Venice's ice cream scene, and I'm excited to share my top 5 picks for the best Venice ice cream spots. Prepare to embark on a delightful journey through the City of Canals, one scoop at a time.

Suso Gelatoteca

Nestled in the heart of Venice, Suso Gelatoteca offers an array of innovative and delectable gelato creations. Their artisanal approach and a focus on premium ingredients result in a rich, creamy texture that is simply irresistible. Be sure to try their signature flavors, such as the Oreo Espresso, which combines the best of coffee and cookies, or the Opera, a delightful combination of pistachio, hazelnut, and almonds.

La Boutique del Gelato

Located near the Rialto Bridge, La Boutique del Gelato is a small, charming ice cream parlor that is well worth a visit. With a wide variety of flavours, ranging from classic Italian favorites like Bacio (chocolate and hazelnut) to more exotic options like Mango and Coconut, there's something to satisfy every palate. The Gianduiotto, a velvety blend of chocolate and hazelnut, is a crowd favourite and a must-try.

Alaska Gelateria

Alaska Gelateria, run by the passionate Carlo Pistacchi, offers a unique and unforgettable gelato experience. Using only the freshest ingredients, Carlo creates flavors that are both inventive and steeped in tradition. Be prepared to be amazed by the likes of Zabaione al Marsala, a rich custard infused with Marsala wine, or the refreshing Basil and Lemon sorbet. The cozy atmosphere and warm service make this a must-visit spot in Venice.

Gelateria Ca' D'Oro

Tucked away in the Cannaregio district, Gelateria Ca' D'Oro is a true hidden gem. This family-run establishment offers a delightful selection of traditional and seasonal gelato flavors, all made in-house daily. The quality of ingredients and dedication to their craft is evident in every scoop. Don't miss the Fior di Latte, a simple yet incredibly creamy and satisfying flavor that is the epitome of Italian gelato perfection.

Gelateria Nico

Located along the picturesque Zattere waterfront, Gelateria Nico is an institution in Venice known for its delightful gelato and stunning views of the Giudecca Canal. This iconic spot offers a wide range of flavors made with the freshest ingredients, and their portions are generous. One of their most famous creations is the Gianduiotto, a heavenly blend of chocolate and hazelnut gelato, served with a dollop of whipped cream. Enjoy your gelato while taking in the beautiful surroundings at this classic Venetian establishment.

With such an incredible array of ice cream spots, Venice is undoubtedly a gelato lover's paradise. As you explore the city's breathtaking sights, be sure to make time to indulge in these top 5 must-try ice cream spots. Your taste buds will thank you!

A Cicchetti Crawl Through Venice: The Ultimate Guide to the City's Best Bacari

Venice, a city of meandering canals and romantic gondolas, is a culinary wonderland to explore. As you wander through its winding streets, you'll discover the hidden gems of Venetian cuisine, the bacari. These traditional wine bars offer the perfect opportunity to savour the mouth-watering cicchetti, the Venetian answer to Spanish tapas. So, join us as we take you on a cicchetti crawl through the enchanting city of Venice and introduce you to the best bacari worth visiting.

Here’s a guide to some of the best bacari and their must-try cicchetti:

Cantina Do Mori (San Polo, 429)

Established in 1462, Cantina Do Mori is the oldest bacaro in Venice. Steeped in history, this cozy wine bar is famed for its delectable cicchetti, including classics like sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines) and baccalà mantecato (whipped salt cod). Pair your snacks with a glass of ombra (local wine) and soak in the authentic Venetian atmosphere.

All’Arco (San Polo, 436)

Just a stone's throw from the Rialto Market, All’Arco is a bustling bacaro popular among both locals and tourists. Known for its exquisite selection of cicchetti, All’Arco serves up a variety of creative bites, from crostini with baccalà mantecato to bite-sized sandwiches filled with marinated artichokes and prosciutto. Don’t forget to sample their house-made wines, served straight from the barrel.

Osteria Al Squero (Dorsoduro, 943-944)

Overlooking the picturesque Squero di San Trovaso, one of Venice's last remaining gondola workshops, Osteria Al Squero offers a scenic spot to enjoy your cicchetti. Choose from an array of delectable bites, such as mozzarella in carrozza, polpette (meatballs), and their signature Venetian tramezzini. Pair these delights with a refreshing spritz or a glass of Prosecco.

Vino Vero (Cannaregio, 2497)

Located along the picturesque Fondamenta Misericordia, Vino Vero is a contemporary bacaro that prides itself on offering an extensive selection of natural wines. Their cicchetti menu is equally impressive, featuring traditional options like baccalà mantecato and more adventurous choices, such as blue cheese and pear crostini. With its relaxed ambiance and canal-side seating, Vino Vero is the perfect spot for a leisurely evening with friends.

Al Timon (Cannaregio, 2754)

A popular hangout spot for locals, Al Timon is a lively bacaro with an inviting atmosphere. This bustling wine bar is famous for its cicchetti, particularly the succulent beef skewers and marinated seafood. Enjoy your cicchetti on board their bragozzo, a traditional wooden boat moored along the canal, while sipping on a glass of wine from their extensive list.

La Ciurma (San Polo, 406)

La Ciurma is a charming little bacaro offering a warm and welcoming atmosphere in the heart of the San Polo district. This family-run spot is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of Venice while savoring an array of delicious cicchetti. Highlights include smoked tuna with orange zest and their selection of crostini topped with various kinds of cheese, cured meats, and fresh vegetables. Pair these tasty bites with a glass of local wine, handpicked by knowledgeable staff.

Bacaro Da Me Pare (San Marco 881)

Bacaro Da Me Pare is a hidden gem that embodies the spirit of Venetian bacari. Known for its friendly service and delicious cicchetti, this spot offers a delightful selection of bites such as creamy baccalà, marinated anchovies, and prosciutto-wrapped figs. Their spritzes are some of the best in town, making it a fantastic stop for an authentic Venetian experience.

Cantina Aziende Agricole (Cannaregio, 429)

Tucked away in the vibrant Cannaregio district, Cantina Aziende Agricole is a gem for those seeking a more intimate and authentic bacaro experience. This tiny wine bar is renowned for its carefully curated selection of organic wines and its emphasis on farm-to-table ingredients. Among the must-try cicchetti are the gorgonzola and walnut crostini, the marinated anchovies, and the daily specials, which showcase the freshest seasonal produce. Immerse yourself in the warm and convivial atmosphere of Cantina Aziende Agricole, and enjoy a truly memorable Venetian culinary experience.

Tips for Enjoying Bacari and Cicchetti in Venice

• Time It Right: Many bacari are busiest during the early evening, especially between 6:00 and 8:00 PM, when locals enjoy an aperitivo. Arrive early to beat the crowds. My personal favourite time is in the Morning before 12 Noon!!!

• Go Local: Don’t be afraid to ask the staff for their recommendations. They’ll often suggest the freshest or most popular cicchetti of the day.

• Pair Wisely: Venetian wines like Prosecco, Soave, or a glass of ombra pair perfectly with most cicchetti. For something different, try a classic spritz.

• Try a Bacaro Tour: If you’re feeling adventurous, create your own bacaro crawl and visit several spots in one evening for a truly immersive experience.

Venice’s bacari and cicchetti culture is a window into the city’s soul, offering an authentic taste of its history, flavors, and convivial spirit. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler, these spots are sure to make your Venetian adventure unforgettable.

Venice During Easter and Spring

Venice is one of the most beautiful and romantic cities in the world, and Easter time is a perfect time to visit it. This Italian city is known for its stunning architecture, canals, and gondolas, making it an ideal destination for couples, families, and solo travelers. Here are a few reasons why visiting Venice during Easter time is an excellent idea.

Firstly, Easter is an important holiday in Venice, and the city comes alive with celebrations, parades, and special events. You can witness the solemn processions that take place throughout the city, including the religious processions on Good Friday, which are particularly impressive. In addition, there are many concerts, exhibitions, and performances that take place during the Easter period, offering a chance to experience the vibrant cultural scene of Venice.

Another reason to visit Venice during Easter is the beautiful spring weather. The city has a mild climate in March and April, and the temperatures are usually pleasant for exploring the city on foot or by boat. The springtime also brings beautiful flowers and blossoms, adding to the charm and beauty of the city.

During Easter, Venice is less crowded compared to the peak summer season, making it a perfect time to enjoy the city's attractions and cultural treasures at a more leisurely pace. You can take a gondola ride through the canals, explore the city's museums, art galleries, and historical landmarks, or simply wander through the narrow streets and soak up the atmosphere.

Moreover, Easter is a time for indulgence and food in Italy, and Venice is no exception. The traditional Easter feast includes roasted lamb, sweet Easter bread, and Colomba Pasquale, a dove-shaped cake. You can also sample other delicious Venetian specialities such as risotto with seafood, polenta, and the famous Venetian cicchetti (small plates of food served with drinks).

Finally, Venice is a city that celebrates its traditions and history, and Easter is no exception. During this time, you can witness the city's traditions and culture firsthand, such as the ancient custom of Venetian gondoliers wearing traditional clothing and colorful sashes during the Easter period.

In conclusion, visiting Venice during Easter time is a fantastic idea, as it offers an opportunity to experience the city's vibrant culture, beautiful weather, delicious food, and traditional celebrations. Whether you are seeking a romantic getaway, a family holiday, or a solo adventure, Venice during Easter is an unforgettable experience that will stay with you forever.

My Favourites Hotels in Venice

You can certainly spend a lot of money on a hotel in Venice. A night at the Gritti Palace in high summer will set you back at least £750. But for the same amount, you could enjoy an entire week in most of the hotels listed here. You won’t get the same status, or quite the same service, or the exact superb location, but you will still find a decently sized room, lots of character and a warm welcome.

Cà del Nobile San Marco 987, ria terà delle Colonne (528 3473; cadelnobile.com)

This hotel is just off one of the thronging routes between St Mark’s and the Rialto. Interestingly, it’s in one of the lowest points of the city: if you visit during acqua alta, you’ll be able to watch water bubbling up through the cobblestones below. Lots of stairs and no lift mean that it’s not for the unfit. Price from £79

Domus Orsoni Cannaregio 1045, Sottoportego dei Vedei (275 9538; domusorsoni.it)

In 1291, Venice’s glassworkers were banished to the island of Murano. Today, only one glass foundry remains in the city: Orsoni. Located in the Jewish Ghetto, and set in a delightful palazzo overlooking a private garden and the foundry, the Domus Orsoni channels the Orsoni family’s heritage in five rooms, resplendent with glass-mosaic-tiled walls and mosaic art works. Price from £71

Locanda Orseolo (Corte Zorzi; 041 523 5586; www.locandaorseolo.com; £160).

Step inside the hotel and you might be in a compartment on the Orient Express: elegant, enveloping, and richly coloured and furnished. But it’s the warmth of the young team at this equally young 15-room hotel that makes it really special – Matteo, Barbara and their brothers, sisters and friends. In the morning, Matteo dons an apron and cooks pancakes and omelettes to order, Barbara serves and everyone chats. The comfortable bedrooms are being transformed to echo the ground floor, complete with hand-painted murals and canopied beds. Secure one and you’ll have a real bargain.

La Villeggiatura San Polo, 1569, Calle dei Botteri (524 4673; lavilleggiatura.it)

A short hop from the Rialto markets, in an area buzzing with restaurants and residential activity, La Villeggiatura is an elegantly tasteful home-from-home. Tea and coffee-making equipment in the spacious bedrooms, and gently attentive service, add to the pleasure of a stay here. Price from £71

Hotel Centauro S Marco Calle della Vida Cpo Manin (www.hotelcentauro.com/)

Located in the historic centre of Venice just a stone’s throw from St Mark’s Square (five minutes walking distance), the Centauro Hotel offers elegant, welcoming accommodation from which you can enjoy the city’s art and culture. Housed within an ancient palace from the 1500’s, the Centauro Hotel has Venetian style furnishings from the 18th century and 30 comfortable guestrooms. Rooms have air conditioning and satellite television, some have canal views and those on the top floor have a private terrace from which you can enjoy panoramic views over the rooftops of Venice.

Al Ponte Mocenigo This is another charming 16th-century palazzo, so tucked away that you could walk right past and never know it was there. You will find one entrance down a very narrow alley just up from the San Stae vaporetto stop; the other is on the opposite side, over a small bridge. Officially it is a two-star hotel, but frankly it rivals many establishments with double that number of stars. The very smart, high-ceilinged rooms are in Venetian styles and colours. The best are numbers five and six, on the first floor overlooking a tiny canal to one side (they are classed as “superior” doubles and cost £128 in mid-season).

Booking.com

Christmas in Venice

While preparation are taking place in Venice and the Lagoon for Christmas here are few tips:A wonderful way to spend Christmas Eve is to attend midnight mass at St. Mark's Basilica. But remember, midnight mass starts at 10:30 p.m. and you should get there early to get a seat (no tickets are needed). Try to enter through the north entrance and not the west entrance often used by tourists.

Even though December 26th is a national holiday (St. Stephen's Day), most of Venice's museums and sites will be open.

Several Venice restaurants are closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and even on the 23rd and 26th. Most hotel restaurants and Harry's Bar are open. Be sure to do your homework and make reservations ahead of time for Christmas meals. We hear Caffe Quadri and the restaurant - Piazza San Marco's famous cafe - is open on Christmas Day. Good place for Christmas breakfast and coffee!

Remember that the vaparetto schedule changes on major holidays. Check the signs posted on the platforms for schedule information.

Each year on December 26, the Frari Church in San Polo (in the Campo dei Frari) offers a free concert at 4:00 p.m. The church is filled with magnificent art, including Titian's Assumption of the Virgin, Canova's Tomb and a carved monk's chair from 1468.

For an incredible seafood dinner and a warm celebration at midnight, go to Trattoria Antiche Carampane on New Year's Eve. (San Polo 1911; (39) 041 524-0165) The price for dinner runs about £70 per person. No matter where you go that night, you must make reservations.

Another restaurant recommendation: Antica Trattoria Poste Vecie (Rialto Pescheria Venezia; (39-041-721-1822) is open on Christmas Day and New Year's Day. This restaurant also has excellent fish and a larger menu as well. The soups and Venetian-style calf's liver are terrific. Fireplaces keep the restaurant warm on cold nights.

If you're in Venice on January 6, don't miss the Befana races. Men clad in long skirts, wigs and babushkas climb into boats for races on the Grand Canal. The best views are from the Rialto Bridge.

Venice's Cats...where are they gone??

For a Gallery of Venetian Stray Cats click here

The Lion of St. Mark is Venice's mascot, at least among sculptors and decorators but in real life, the closest lion is probably at the Parco Natura Viva just outside Verona ;-)

With no living lions to reign over Venice, the local feline population has adopted a surrogate leonine role. Back in the 1980s, when I spent my year in Venice as part of the national army service, cats were seen everywhere in the city: sunning themselves on park benches, perched on bridges, wandering the streets, and dining on leftovers at the Rialto fish market.

Now the cat population has been limited mainly by laws and modern way of life, there are still few colonies the main ones are at Ospedale Civile (yes inside!) , at San Lorenzo near the Church, at Bacini, at Giudecca near Ponte Lungo at the Arsenale, there are quite few at the Lido and one at Torcello!

There is an Anglo Italian organization Dingo part of AISPA that works to feed, protect and maintain colonies in a healthy and modern way, they also run the "gattile" (Cattery)  at Malamocco. Despite several misconceptions and a bit of Italian racism there are no proofs (!!!) that Dingo or the Cinese people are responsible for the disappearance of cats from Venice!

In a brilliant book titled A Venetian Bestiary, Jan Morris wrote:"The cat has always been an essential scavenger in a city that depends on the tides for its hygiene, and has periodically been decimated by rat-borne plagues. It was Shylock the Venetian who declared the cat to be 'both necessary and harmless,' and when from time to time the municipality has tried to reduce the teeming feline population, the citizenry has always been up in arms in protest. Your Venetian cats are not like others. Sometimes of course they live in the bosoms of families, and are fed on canned horsemeat, and prettied up with bows: but far more often they survive half-wild, in feral gangs or covens of cats, and not infrequently some cherished household pet, observing the lives of such lucky ruffians from the kitchen window, will abandon the comforts of basket and fireside rug, and take to the streets himself."

How does Venice work?

Venice, Italy, “stretching across 117 small islands in the marshy Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy,” may be one of the most amazing places in the world to live. Fans of Donna Leon’s fictional detective Guido Brunetti come to know it as a land of good food, water taxis and alleys that dead-end at the water.

Venice Backstage. How does Venice work? from Insula spa on Vimeo.

Having said that Venice is not just a stage set. It is also a city with a resident population, which has productive activities, transportation and services. But how does the “Venice system” work? How do the tides in the lagoon behave? How are the canals formed? And the embankments? What’s under the buildings?

Venice Vaporetto Map

I have been asked few times the best place to find a Waterbus - Vaporetto map, I have blogged before here about the vaporetti, prices and new numbers but here is a map, if you click you will get an PDF Hi Res map and info taken from ACTV! Or you can buy a printable Tourist Version from our friend Nan of Living Venice here

SEASONAL LINES Seasonal lines are largely dedicated to tourists and are activated on particular occasions, such as during the Venice Carnival or in the spring and summer to facilitate the mobility of large numbers of visitors. These seasonal lines provide rapid, direct backup to the city centre lines down the Canal Grande and Giudecca Canal. Line 5 on the other hand directly links the island of Murano with Piazza San Marco and the city centre of Venice, taking an external route.

CITY CENTER LINES These are the lines which crisscross the "heart" of the city, exploiting the two largest inner canals, the Canal Grande, probably the world's most famous canal, and ....the Giudecca Canal, large and deep enough to allow even the arrival of cruise ships. The city centre lines connect a number of access points such as Tronchetto, Piazzale Roma and the railway station with the Venice of shops, monuments and museums, passing through the San Marco Basin as far as Lido di Venezia, famous for the beauty of its beaches and its nature reserves.

CIRCULAR LINES These lines with a roughly circular route connect the perimeter of the city touching points of great cultural and commercial interest throughout the area. With the circular lines, you can easily reach the islands of Lido and Murano (famous for its glass products), passing through or starting from the railway station, Piazzale Roma and near Piazza San Marco. With the circular, you can also get off and reach Venice City Hospital after a short walk along a route free from architectural barriers.

LAGOON LINES These lines connect Venice with the most important islands in the lagoon, both in the north lagoon (Mazzorbo, Burano, Torcello, Sant’Erasmo) and the south lagoon. The lagoon lines also link transport nodes on the mainland and in Venice province with the city centre. You can in fact reach Venice directly from Punta Sabbioni, Treporti and Chioggia. The lagoon lines also include the ferry-boat line no. 17 connecting Lido di Venezia and the Tronchetto terminal and the bus line no. 11 linking Lido di Venezia with the island of Pellestrina. The San Lazzaro - Lido Casinò section of line no. 20 is seasonal, to verify availability contact the Hellovenezia Call Center (+39)-041-2424.

TERMINAL LINES The terminal lines are a group of rapid lines with few stops which rapidly connect Venice with the mainland terminals managed by companies in the ACTV group. They consist largely of the Alilaguna group of lines and the line 16.