Vogalonga: Venice's Rowing Renaissance

Imagine a Venice where the only sounds are the rhythmic splash of oars and the cheerful banter of rowers. No motorboats, no vaporetti—just the serene symphony of human-powered vessels gliding through historic canals. Welcome to the Vogalonga.

A Journey Back to Tradition

In 1974, a group of Venetian rowing enthusiasts, concerned about the damaging effects of motorboat traffic on their beloved canals, organised a friendly regatta among traditional boats called mascarete. This event sparked the idea for the Vogalonga—a non-competitive, 30-kilometre rowing event that would celebrate and preserve Venice's rich maritime heritage. The first official Vogalonga took place in 1975, attracting around 1,500 participants in 500 boats. 

The Route: A Scenic Circuit

The Vogalonga course offers a picturesque journey through Venice's lagoon:

  1. Start: Bacino di San Marco, marked by a cannon shot.

  2. Lagoon Islands: Passing by Sant'Elena, Vignole, Sant’Erasmo, and San Francesco del Deserto.

  3. Northern Lagoon: Skirting around Burano and Mazzorbo.

  4. Return: Through Murano, entering the Cannaregio Canal.

  5. Grand Canal: Rowing under the Rialto and Accademia bridges.

  6. Finish: At Punta della Dogana, opposite the Doge’s Palace.

A Kaleidoscope of Boats and Cultures

Participants come from all over the world, bringing a diverse array of human-powered vessels: gondolas, kayaks, dragon boats, canoes, and more. Many crews don traditional attire or even costumes, turning the event into a vibrant floating parade. The atmosphere is festive and inclusive, embodying the spirit of community and shared passion for rowing.

Navigating the City During Vogalonga

On Vogalonga day, Venice experiences significant changes in its usual transportation routines:

  • Public Transport: Vaporetto services are suspended or rerouted along the regatta course, typically from early morning until the event concludes in the afternoon.

  • Alternative Routes: Travelers should plan ahead, allowing extra time and checking for service updates to navigate the city efficiently.

  • Walking: Exploring Venice on foot during this time offers a unique opportunity to experience the city's vibrant atmosphere and catch glimpses of the regatta from various vantage points.

Best Viewing Spots

To witness the Vogalonga's vibrant procession:

  • St. Mark’s Basin: Ideal for viewing the start amidst a sea of boats.

  • Cannaregio Canal: A lively spot where locals cheer on participants.

  • Accademia Bridge: Offers a panoramic view of boats navigating the Grand Canal.

Vogalonga

Final Thoughts

The Vogalonga stands as a testament to Venice's commitment to preserving its unique maritime culture. Whether you're rowing alongside thousands or observing from the sidelines, the event offers an unforgettable experience that captures the spirit and resilience of this historic city.

So, pack your sunhat, grab your camera, and immerse yourself in the Vogalonga—a celebration of tradition, community, and the enduring allure of Venice's waterways.


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Discovering the Nolinski Venice: A Haven of Elegance and Serenity

In the heart of Venice, a city that floats on the dreams of artists and poets, lies a sanctuary of luxury and tranquility - the Nolinski Venice. This hotel, more than just a place to stay, offers an immersive experience into the refined elegance that defines Venice itself.

From the moment you step through its doors, the Nolinski Venice whispers tales of sophistication and comfort. The interior, a harmonious blend of Venetian tradition and contemporary design, speaks to the soul, offering a warm welcome to weary travellers seeking respite and enchantment.

Accommodations Fit for Royalty

Each room and suite at the Nolinski is a testament to craftsmanship and artistry, adorned with bespoke furniture and lush fabrics that echo the city's rich heritage. Windows open to breathtaking views of Venice’s iconic canals and skyline, promising a serene start and end to every day.

Culinary Delights to Savor

The hotel's dining experience is nothing short of spectacular, with a menu that celebrates the bounty of the Veneto region. Fresh, locally sourced ingredients are transformed into exquisite dishes that tantalize the palate, served in settings that range from elegantly casual to opulently grand.

An Oasis of Wellness

The Nolinski Venice also houses a world-class spa, an oasis where time stands still. Here, guests can indulge in treatments that blend ancient techniques with modern wellness concepts, ensuring a rejuvenating escape from the hustle and bustle of the outside world.

Exclusive Experiences

Beyond its walls, the Nolinski offers unique experiences designed to immerse guests in the art, culture, and beauty of Venice. From private gondola tours under the moonlight to exclusive access to art collections and historic sites, the hotel ensures every stay is unforgettable.

A Homage to Venice’s Timeless Beauty

Staying at the Nolinski Venice is more than just a visit; it's an homage to the city's timeless beauty and a journey into the heart of Venetian luxury. It stands as a beacon for those who seek the extraordinary, a place where every detail tells a story of elegance, passion, and the enduring charm of Venice.

Poolside Ambiance

Perched on the hotel's uppermost level, a breathtaking vista unfolds—a mosaic of terracotta roofs sprawling beneath the sky. Here, an opulent indoor pool inspired by Roman baths glistens with a touch of Byzantine elegance through its shimmering gold mosaic tiles. But the splendour doesn't end with the pool's luxurious design; panoramic views offer a visual feast of Venice's iconic landmarks, including the towering Campanile, the majestic Doge’s Palace, and the domes of St Mark’s Basilica, each contributing to the poolside's allure.

Spa Retreat

Immerse yourself in a world of tranquillity and refined beauty reminiscent of Giovanni Bellini's serene portraits at the hotel's exclusive spa. Indulge in treatments enriched with the luxury of Swiss La Colline skincare within the privacy of a spacious therapy suite designed for individuals or couples. Nestled behind the discreet elegance of the Library Bar, this sanctuary under a star-painted ceiling draws inspiration from the grandeur of Ottoman design. While making a wish under this starlit dome may seem tempting, one might argue that being enveloped in Venice's lap of luxury is a dream already realized.

A Guide to Venice: the Best Neighborhoods

Venice, a city woven with canals and steeped in history, offers an array of mesmerizing neighbourhoods for travellers seeking an authentic experience. While the allure of San Marco and Rialto is undeniable, their bustling crowds can sometimes overshadow this city's serene beauty. Here, we explore the enchanting areas of Venice that promise a more intimate encounter with La Serenissima.

1. Cannaregio: A Blend of Serenity and Accessibility

Just a stone's throw from the Santa Lucia train station, Cannaregio is a traveller’s dream for its convenience and tranquillity. This district, a tapestry of narrow alleys and serene canals, offers a glimpse into the everyday life of Venetians. The Jewish Ghetto, nestled in Cannaregio, is historically significant and brims with cosy trattorias and artisan shops. Stay here for easy access to the train station and a peaceful retreat after a day of exploration.

2. Dorsoduro: The Artistic Heartbeat

Dorsoduro, known for its vibrant art scene, is an ideal choice for those enchanted by creativity and culture. Home to the renowned Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Accademia Gallery, this area is a haven for art lovers. The lively Campo Santa Margherita, dotted with cafes and bars, provides a youthful vibe. Choose Dorsoduro for a stay enriched with art, splendid views of the Grand Canal, and a lively yet relaxed nightlife.

3. Castello: A Slice of Authentic Venice

For a deep dive into Venetian life, Castello is your go-to. This sprawling neighborhood, stretching from the edge of San Marco to the verdant gardens of Biennale, is a mosaic of local life, historic sites, and charming cafes. Experience the authentic Venice, away from the tourist trail, and enjoy leisurely walks along the picturesque Riva degli Schiavoni.

4. Santa Croce: Convenience and Character

Santa Croce, often overlooked by tourists, offers a unique blend of convenience and Venetian charm. Easily accessible from Piazzale Roma and the train station, this area is ideal for those with heavy luggage or limited time. Despite its central location, Santa Croce maintains a laid-back atmosphere filled with hidden gems and local eateries.

5. Giudecca: An Island Retreat

For a serene escape, consider staying in Giudecca. This island, just a short vaporetto ride from the main city, is a peaceful sanctuary with spectacular views of Venice. Giudecca is known for its artistic workshops and less crowded walkways and is perfect for those seeking tranquillity and inspiration.

6. San Polo: A Culinary Delight in the Heart of Venice

Nestled in the heart of Venice, San Polo is a delightful district for those who appreciate the culinary arts and vibrant market life. This area, one of the city's oldest parts, is home to the famous Rialto Market, where locals and chefs gather for the freshest seafood and produce. The narrow streets of San Polo are lined with an array of eateries, from traditional Venetian bacari (wine bars) to gourmet restaurants, making it a paradise for food enthusiasts. Despite its proximity to the more crowded tourist spots, San Polo retains a sense of intimacy and charm, offering a perfect blend of culinary exploration and Venetian authenticity. Stay in San Polo for an immersive gastronomic experience and easy access to Venice’s iconic sights.In Conclusion

Venice, a city of unparalleled beauty and history, offers diverse neighbourhoods, each with its unique charm. Whether you seek the artistic pulse of Dorsoduro, the tranquillity of Giudecca, or the convenient accessibility of Cannaregio, Venice has a corner that will speak to your heart. Remember, the beauty of Venice lies not just in its famous landmarks but in the hidden alleys, the local cafes, and the daily life of its residents. Happy exploring!

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The Top Luxury Hotels in Venice: A Connoisseur's Guide

Venice, a city of unparalleled romance and beauty, offers an array of accommodations to make your stay unforgettable.

As someone who has had the privilege of capturing the essence of Venice through a camera lens, I know how integral a hotel experience can be in shaping your overall impression of a place. From historical palazzos to modern retreats, Venice has a luxury hotel for every taste. Here, I present an updated list of my favourite top luxury hotels in Venice for the discerning traveller.

Aman Venice

Nestled in a 16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal, Aman Venice is the epitome of luxury. It's not just a hotel; it's a living, breathing work of art. From sumptuous interiors to exceptional service, this hotel promises an unforgettable stay.

Belmond Hotel Cipriani

Belmond Hotel Cipriani provides a sanctuary of exclusivity and elegance only reachable by private boat. This hotel hosts one of Venice's largest swimming pools and offers unmatched views of the Venetian Lagoon and Doge's Palace.

The Gritti Palace

This former 16th-century noble house turned luxury hotel offers a unique blend of historical grandeur and contemporary amenities. With an exclusive Acqua di Parma spa and an on-site cooking school, The Gritti Palace is much more than just a hotel—it’s a unique Venetian experience.

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Situated on its own island in the Venetian Lagoon, San Clemente Palace Kempinski provides an escape from the city's bustling tourist hubs. This 190-room luxury hotel boasts meticulously landscaped gardens, three bars, and three restaurants, offering an all-encompassing luxury experience.

Baglioni Hotel Luna

The Baglioni Hotel Luna offers an intimate and romantic setting only steps from Piazza San Marco. This hotel provides a classical Venetian experience, from its Murano glass chandeliers to its splendidly ornate rooms. A private dock allows for convenient travel to and from the hotel, adding to its exclusive charm.

Conclusion

Venice has always been more than a destination; it's an experience, an eternal moment captured in time. These luxury hotels serve as the perfect backdrop to a city renowned for its art, culture, and its unique layout of canals and narrow streets. They offer not merely a place to sleep, but an immersive experience that captures the very essence of Venetian opulence.

From sipping Bellinis on a private terrace overlooking the Grand Canal to treating yourself to a spa day after an inspiring photography session, these hotels ensure a stay as memorable as Venice.

So, whether you're here to capture the perfect shot or to indulge in Venetian luxury, make your reservations now. Your dream Venetian getaway awaits you.

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My Favourites Hotels in Venice

You can certainly spend a lot of money on a hotel in Venice. A night at the Gritti Palace in high summer will set you back at least £750. But for the same amount, you could enjoy an entire week in most of the hotels listed here. You won’t get the same status, or quite the same service, or the exact superb location, but you will still find a decently sized room, lots of character and a warm welcome.

Cà del Nobile San Marco 987, ria terà delle Colonne (528 3473; cadelnobile.com)

This hotel is just off one of the thronging routes between St Mark’s and the Rialto. Interestingly, it’s in one of the lowest points of the city: if you visit during acqua alta, you’ll be able to watch water bubbling up through the cobblestones below. Lots of stairs and no lift mean that it’s not for the unfit. Price from £79

Domus Orsoni Cannaregio 1045, Sottoportego dei Vedei (275 9538; domusorsoni.it)

In 1291, Venice’s glassworkers were banished to the island of Murano. Today, only one glass foundry remains in the city: Orsoni. Located in the Jewish Ghetto, and set in a delightful palazzo overlooking a private garden and the foundry, the Domus Orsoni channels the Orsoni family’s heritage in five rooms, resplendent with glass-mosaic-tiled walls and mosaic art works. Price from £71

Locanda Orseolo (Corte Zorzi; 041 523 5586; www.locandaorseolo.com; £160).

Step inside the hotel and you might be in a compartment on the Orient Express: elegant, enveloping, and richly coloured and furnished. But it’s the warmth of the young team at this equally young 15-room hotel that makes it really special – Matteo, Barbara and their brothers, sisters and friends. In the morning, Matteo dons an apron and cooks pancakes and omelettes to order, Barbara serves and everyone chats. The comfortable bedrooms are being transformed to echo the ground floor, complete with hand-painted murals and canopied beds. Secure one and you’ll have a real bargain.

La Villeggiatura San Polo, 1569, Calle dei Botteri (524 4673; lavilleggiatura.it)

A short hop from the Rialto markets, in an area buzzing with restaurants and residential activity, La Villeggiatura is an elegantly tasteful home-from-home. Tea and coffee-making equipment in the spacious bedrooms, and gently attentive service, add to the pleasure of a stay here. Price from £71

Hotel Centauro S Marco Calle della Vida Cpo Manin (www.hotelcentauro.com/)

Located in the historic centre of Venice just a stone’s throw from St Mark’s Square (five minutes walking distance), the Centauro Hotel offers elegant, welcoming accommodation from which you can enjoy the city’s art and culture. Housed within an ancient palace from the 1500’s, the Centauro Hotel has Venetian style furnishings from the 18th century and 30 comfortable guestrooms. Rooms have air conditioning and satellite television, some have canal views and those on the top floor have a private terrace from which you can enjoy panoramic views over the rooftops of Venice.

Al Ponte Mocenigo This is another charming 16th-century palazzo, so tucked away that you could walk right past and never know it was there. You will find one entrance down a very narrow alley just up from the San Stae vaporetto stop; the other is on the opposite side, over a small bridge. Officially it is a two-star hotel, but frankly it rivals many establishments with double that number of stars. The very smart, high-ceilinged rooms are in Venetian styles and colours. The best are numbers five and six, on the first floor overlooking a tiny canal to one side (they are classed as “superior” doubles and cost £128 in mid-season).

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